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Globally there are hundreds if not thousands of mountains that have not seen bootprints on their summits. Two things usually keep a peak from being unclimbed, access and difficulty. There are individuals who are focused on which peaks have and have not been climbed. When you look at their work there are quite simple patterns to which peaks remain unclimbed.

Chumbu Himal, Nepal Himalaya

One good example of a peak that is unclimbed due to difficulty is 6881m (22,503ft) Chumbu Himal, located right next to the popular Everest Base Camp trekking trail and the ever-popular Everest itself. Chumbu is a good example of a difficult unclimbed peak. Well guarded, the peak contains hanging serac ice on most aspects and potential routes, which is an objective hazard that cannot be avoided if a summit attempt is made. There is a serious amount of risk with climbing beneath these towering remnants of the last Ice Age.

To add to that, the climbing above and below these seracs is very real. What I mean by that is pitched out rock, ice and mixed climbing at elevations above 20,000 ft (6000m). It’s likely this peak will remain unclimbed for some time, until the right party of well equipped, physically adept and risk tolerant climbers puts together the key to the summit. It will not come easily.

On the other end of the spectrum is a peak like 6824m (22,314ft) Miar Chhish in the Pakistan Karakoram. Here, access is the reason for its remaining to be unclimbed. The peak is difficult to access, while the climbing on it is relatively moderate, and this is why it remains unclimbed.

What draws me to unclimbed peaks are what draws the fisherman to the river, the artist to the canvas, and the scientist to the lab. The unknown. The unknown is powerful. Within the unknown we find a deeper understanding of ourselves, the natural world, and what true adventure really is. Adventure brings hardship, uncertainty, greater appreciation and value to our existence.

I cannot say enough about how important the unknown is.

Luke Smithwick

Author Luke Smithwick

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